#Rain spout diverter diy install#

Tamp and level an area of ground and add a layer of pea gravel. These blocks work nicely because they are longer than standard concrete block.

#Rain spout diverter diy install#

To install the barrel I used two large concrete blocks that were taken out of my basement wall. The final step is to insert the two 3' X 4' X 4' downspout adapters into either end of the sanitary tee. This is to keep leaves and debris from the gutters out of the barrel. I took a section of gutter screen and formed it into a funnel shape that opens into the 1-1/2' hole of the coupling. There is a small gap between these pieces hence the use of sealant over PVC cement. Next, use the same marine-grade sealant to glue the 3' X 1-1/2' coupling inside the down-side of the sanitary tee. The curve will allow a better flow into the barrel. Make sure that the tee is upside down from normal plumbing installation. Prime and glue the street elbow into the 3' outlet of the sanitary tee. Take the 2' reduction bushing and prime and glue it into the appropriate end of the 90 degree street elbow. Then prime and glue small section of 2' PVC pipe into the male adapter. To begin the glued section, I applied TFE thread paste to the threads of the 2' PVC male adapter and inserted it into the fine threaded hole on the top of the barrel. I made it this way so that the diverter intake won't leak but the barrel can still be easily removed from the downspout if needed. The diverter is assembled as a glued section and a dry-fitted section. Let the sealant harden for 24-48 hours before applying any tension or water pressure. The tool was made from a hold-on wrench ( either 1 1/4' or 1 1/2') bolted onto a 3' section of scrape copper pipe. To get the spout completely tight I had to make my own tool that would fit through the 2' hole. You have to open the valve completely to do this. Feed the loose end through the threaded side of the drain spout. Screw the 3/4' conduit locknut onto the drain spout and apply sealant to the barrel-side of the locknut and thread paste to the threads. With the locknut in position, keep tension on the string to keep it in place. I wanted to keep the setup from falling to the bottom or messing up the bead of sealant. The second string tied to the washer in the picture is simply for control.

Place sealant on the barrel-side of the locknut and then feed the washer and locknut into the barrel. I then fed the string through the 3/4' brass locknut and tied the end to another washer larger than the locknut. I taped a magnetic retriever to a broom handle and fished the washer out of the hole at the top of the barrel. I tied a small washer to a length of string and inserted it through the drilled hole at the bottom of the barrel. So I had to fit everything through the 2' holes. Installing the spout took a little ingenuity because I wanted to keep the integrity of the holes in the top of the barrel.

The diverter could be extended away from the downspout with a section of 3' PVC pipe to add a little more flexibility. This will give you the final position of your spout. The diverter has a limited distance from the downspout so make sure that you consider the distance from the downspout and position of the holes on top. The threaded PVC male adapter that I used has to be used on the fine threaded hole. The barrel that I use had one course threaded and one fine threaded hole. Also, take into account the position of the holes at the top of the barrel. The distance of the hole from the bottom of the barrel depends on the amount of clearance that will be needed when the barrel is finally installed. A bit of planning before drilling is suggested at this point. Drill a hole using a 3/4' spade bit a couple of inches from the bottom of the barrel.